Fashion Photography 101: Essential Tips on Lighting, Angles and Settings

Meet Anupam Singh – a fashion, editorial, and portrait photographer based in Auckland, New Zealand, with over twelve years of experience capturing striking campaigns, fashion weeks, and commercial projects around the globe. Whether he's working in studio or out on location, Anupam is passionate about creating imagery that helps brands tell powerful visual stories.

In this article, Anupam shares his top fashion photography tips – from camera settings and lighting techniques to choosing the right location and more – to help you elevate your next shoot.

1. Recommended Camera Settings for Fashion Photography

Manual vs Auto: Take Full Control

Fashion photography often demands consistency, especially in studio or controlled lighting environments. That’s why I shoot Manual Mode (M) most of the time—it gives me complete control over exposure, white balance, and creative decisions.

That said, Aperture Priority (A/Av) can be useful when shooting street style or fast-paced fashion week content where lighting conditions change quickly. Learn both, but master Manual.

ISO, Aperture & Shutter Speed Settings

Here’s what I typically use:

ISO
• ISO 100–400: For studio or daylight shoots—keeps images clean and noise-free.
• ISO 800–1600: For low-light conditions or fashion week shows. Full-frame sensors handle this well.

Aperture
• f/2.8–f/4: Ideal for portraits and fashion looks where you want soft backgrounds and focus on the subject/garment.
• f/5.6–f/8: Great for group shots or when you need more of the outfit in sharp focus.

Shutter Speed
• 1/125–1/250 sec: Standard for fashion portraits and posed looks.
• 1/500 sec or faster: For movement, runway, or street style photography.
• Note: If using flash, keep shutter at or below 1/200 sec unless your system supports high-speed sync.

RAW vs JPEG: Always Choose Flexibility

I always shoot in RAW. It preserves dynamic range and gives me full flexibility in post-production—especially important when editing skin tones, textures, and fabrics.JPEG is only useful when fast turnaround is required with little to no post-processing, such as street style before or after fashion shows.

Focus Modes & AF Tips

Fast and accurate focusing is key to sharp fashion images:
• Servo: Best for moving subjects (runway, dynamic posing).
• One Shot: Ideal for portraits where the subject is still.
• Eye/Face Detection AF: A game-changer for fashion work—turn it on if your camera supports it.

My Go-To Cameras for Fashion Photography

I’ve worked with a variety of Canon cameras over the years. My first camera was the Canon EOS 550D in 2011. Then Upgrading through the 5D range and EOS 1Dx II when I started doing video work. I was an early adapter of the mirrorless system when Canon bought the EOS R. My current favourite setup is the Canon EOS R5 paired with the RF 50mm f/1.2 lens. I love the 50mm focal length for portraits—it offers just the right amount of environmental context without turning the portrait into a full headshot.

2. Mastering Natural and Artificial Light in Fashion Shoots Outdoor Fashion Photography: Lighting Tips & Tools

Lighting can make or break your shot, especially when working outdoors. Here are my go-to tips and tools to help you make the most of natural light and adapt when conditions aren’t ideal.

Best Times of Day to Shoot Outdoors
• Golden Hour – The hour after sunrise and before sunset offers soft, flattering light with warm tones—perfect for fashion portraits.
• Overcast Days – Don’t be afraid of clouds! Soft, diffused light is ideal for even skin tones and controlled contrast.
• Midday – Harsh but usable. Use diffusers or find open shade to avoid deep shadows and blown highlights.

Favourite Lighting Modifiers
• Reflectors – A must-have. I use white or silver reflectors to bounce light onto the model and fill shadows, especially under the chin and eyes.
• Diffusers – Great for softening harsh sunlight. A handheld diffuser over the model creates instant shade.
• Softbox (with portable strobes) – For more controlled light on-location. I currently use an Elinchrom Three with the Elinchrom Rotalux Deep Octabox (100cm) which gives a unique light that’s soft and has enough contrast.
• Scrims – Useful on set when working with a team. They cover larger areas and soften direct light for full-body shots.

Dealing with Harsh or Mixed Lighting
• Find Open Shade – Walls, buildings, or trees can offer clean, even light when the sun is too intense.
• Use a Diffuser – To control strong sunlight and avoid harsh shadows on the face or clothing.
• Balance Colour Temperatures – In mixed lighting (sunlight + artificial), use gels on strobes or correct in post. Better yet, shoot RAW for full flexibility.
• Directional Light Use – If you can’t diffuse, work with the sun—shoot with it behind or to the side of your Model for rim lighting or soft shadows.

White Balance Tips
• Shoot in RAW – This gives you full control in post, especially in mixed or changing lighting conditions.
• Use Custom White Balance – For consistency, especially on client shoots. Use a grey card or set it manually.
• Avoid Auto White Balance – It can shift frame to frame in changing light. Set your Kelvin temperature or use presets like “Daylight” or “Cloudy” as needed.
• Match WB to Light Source – Most strobes will have a white balance of 5200K set this manually on your camera. With new constant light from Apurture they can vary from 3200K to 5600K.

3. Working with Models or Talent

Working with Models or Talent: Direction, Comfort & Craft Great fashion portraits aren’t just about lighting and gear, working with people is at the heart of fashion and portrait photography. Whether you’re shooting seasoned models or first-timers, the way you communicate, guide, and frame your subject makes all the difference.

Here’s how I approach it:

How to Give Direction & Make People Comfortable
• Start with a Conversation – Get to know your Model. Talk them through the concept and ask how they’re feeling—it builds trust.
• Demonstrate Poses – Show them what you’re looking for this could be via Mood board, reference images that you have saved. It helps break the ice and avoids miscommunication.
• Positive Reinforcement – Give frequent, genuine feedback: “That looks great,” “Love that angle,” “Let’s try one more like that.” It keeps the energy up.
• Keep It Relaxed – Play music, crack a joke, or let them move between poses naturally. A calm set leads to stronger images.

Tips on Posing & Capturing Movement
• Start Simple – Begin with standing poses and build confidence before introducing complex positions.
• Use Hands Well – Avoid stiff arms or “dead hands.” Guide their hands to touch clothing, hair, or props naturally.
• Create Shapes – Encourage angles in the body (bent knees, tilted hips, elongated necks) to add dynamic lines.
• Capture Transitions – Some of the best moments happen between poses. Keep shooting as they adjust or shift—it’s often where the magic lives.
• For Movement – Ask them to walk, spin, or play with fabric. Use continuous shooting mode and a fast shutter speed (1/500s+) to freeze motion cleanly.

Working with Diverse Talent
• Celebrate Individuality – Understand that beauty comes in many forms. Adapt your lighting, posing, and styling to highlight each model’s unique features.
• Skin Tones & Lighting – Be mindful of lighting setups that flatter all skin tones. Avoid overexposing lighter skin or underexposing darker tones—balance is key.
• Representation Matters – Work with models of all backgrounds, body types, and gender identities. Your lens has power—use it inclusively.

Ideal Lenses for Portraiture
• RF 50mm f/1.2 or f/1.4 – Understand that beauty comes in many forms. Adapt your lighting, posing, and styling to highlight each model’s unique features.
• RF 70–200mm f/2.8 – Be mindful of lighting setups that flatter all skin tones. Avoid overexposing lighter skin or underexposing darker tones—balance is key.
• RF 35mm f/1.4 – Great for editorial or street-style portraits where context and background are part of the story.

4. Shooting for Fashion Brands vs Editorial

Whether you’re shooting a global fashion campaign or a moody editorial spread, the fundamentals remain the same: know the brief, trust your vision, and shoot with intention. The magic happens when commercial purpose and creative energy meet in the middle. Fashion photography comes in many forms, but two of the most common types are brand campaigns and editorial shoots. While both involve style, story, and aesthetics, the approach—and what’s expected—can be very different. Here’s how I navigate the two.

Differences in Brief, Expectations & Visual Style

Fashion Brands (Commercial Work)
• Goal: Drive sales and align with the brand’s identity.
• Style: Clean, polished, product focused. The clothes are the hero.
• Structure: More direction, often guided by mood boards, colour palettes, brand guidelines, and marketing strategy.
• Output: Website banners, lookbooks, e-commerce, social media, and advertising.

Editorial Shoots
• Goal: Tell a story or convey a mood—more art-driven than product-driven.
• Style: Experimental, emotive, often conceptual. More freedom to play with lighting, poses, locations, and styling.
• Structure: Looser briefs, room for collaboration with stylists and creative teams.
• Output: Magazines, online publications, personal portfolios, or promotional press features.

What to Clarify with the Client Beforehand

Regardless of the shoot type, clear communication is key. Before any project, I always make sure to confirm:
• The objective – Is this for selling a product, building brand awareness, or editorial exposure?
• Usage rights – Where and how will the images be used (print, digital, social, etc.)?
• Visual references – Moodboards, colour schemes, sample poses, or lighting inspiration.
• Wardrobe & styling – Who is responsible for sourcing and prepping?
• Team structure – Hair, makeup, styling, assistants—knowing who’s on set ensures smoother collaboration.
• Deadlines & delivery format – Confirm turnaround time, file specs, and image selection process.

How to Bring Personality or Story into Brand Imagery

Even with strict brand guidelines, there’s always room for personality and storytelling. Here’s how I infuse creativity into commercial work:
• The objective – Even a simple shoot can have a storyline (e.g., “a city stroll,” “morning routine”). This adds cohesion and emotional impact.
• Usage rights – Let models walk, interact, or play with their outfit—it brings authenticity.
• Visual references – Use natural light or contextual backdrops that support the brand’s voice and elevate the image.
• Wardrobe & styling – Genuine expressions, laughs, and transitions often feel more human than overly posed shots.
• Deadlines & delivery format – Understand what they stand for. A sporty, minimalist label will require a very different tone than a luxe, romantic one.

 

5. Location and Background Tips

Great fashion photography isn’t just about stunning outfits—it’s about context. The best locations quietly support the visual story, helping the viewer connect with the mood, not just the clothes. The right location can elevate a fashion image—but it should never compete with the clothes. Whether you’re working in a stunning architectural space or a tight alleyway, your background should support the story, not distract from it. Here’s how I approach choosing and using locations effectively.

Finding Locations That Don’t Overpower the Fashion
• Let the Outfit Lead – Choose backgrounds that complement the colour, texture, and vibe of the clothing. Neutral tones, clean lines, or muted textures allow bold fashion pieces to pop.
• Avoid Visual Clutter – Stay away from overly busy or patterned backgrounds unless they’re essential to the concept. Minimalism often creates more impact.
• Look for Consistency – Walls, staircases, open urban spaces, or textured surfaces (like concrete, fabric, or wood) can frame the model without stealing the scene.
• Match Mood to Location – For softer looks, consider natural settings or pastel walls. For structured or edgy fashion, try industrial backdrops or harsh shadows.

How to Shoot Fashion in Small or Busy Spaces
• Use a Longer Lens – A lens like an RF 50mm or RF 70–200mm compresses space and helps isolate your model, even in chaotic environments.
• Frame Tight – Don’t be afraid to crop in close. Waist-up or mid-length portraits can minimize background distractions.
• Use Background Blur (Shallow Depth of Field) – Shooting at f/1.8 or f/2.8 can help get away the clutter and keep the focus on the model.
• Leverage Angles – Shoot from low or high perspectives to remove unwanted elements from the frame, especially in crowded places.
• Control the Colour Palette – If the space is visually busy, try to position your model against sections that match or contrast tastefully with the wardrobe.

Framing & Using Depth
• Create Layers – Use foreground elements (like plants, railings, or fabric) to frame the model. This adds depth and interest to otherwise flat locations.
• Leading Lines – Use architectural lines, streets, or shadows to draw the viewer’s eye toward the model.
• Negative Space – Leave intentional blank space around the model to highlight posture, styling, and facial expression. It’s especially effective in editorial work.

 

6. Editing Style and Workflow

Your editing style should feel like an extension of your photography—not a mask over it. The goal is to enhance what’s already strong in-camera, not to fix it after the fact. With a clean workflow your post-production becomes a creative tool, not a task that takes hours.

Software Used & Go-To Adjustments While Adobe Lightroom remains a great all-rounder, Capture One has become the gold standard for many professional fashion and commercial photographers—especially during studio and on-location shoots. If you’re working on high-volume, fast-paced shoots—or anything where precise colour, tethered reliability, and client collaboration matter—Capture One is worth the investment. Paired with the Canon R5’s USB-C capabilities the file transfer is instant and we don't have to wait on set for the images to load up on the laptop Screen.

My Go-To Adjustments:
• White balance correction
• Exposure and contrast tweaks
• Tone curve adjustments
• Lens corrections (especially for portraits and wide-angle work)
• Local adjustments using radial or brush filters

Colour Grading
• Start with a calibrated monitor and consistent lighting.
• Use split toning or the HSL panel to control colour contrast—especially for balancing skin tones and background hues.
• Avoid overly trendy looks (like orange/teal) unless the brief calls for it. Aim for timeless, clean tones.

Skin Retouching
• Less is more. I prefer frequency separation or Dodge & Burn techniques to keep texture natural while removing minor blemishes or discolouration.
• Use the Clone Stamp or Healing Brush sparingly—focus on enhancing, not replacing skin.
• Pay attention to transitions in light across the face and body; a smooth gradient can often make skin look more polished than any heavy editing.

Speeding Up Post-Production Without Losing Quality
• Presets & Actions – I use my own custom styles (Called Presets in Lightroom) in Capture One to apply consistent colour styles across a set, which I then tweak individually.
• Batch Editing – Sync settings across similar lighting setups to cut time while maintaining consistency.
• Culling with Purpose – I do a quick pass to remove unusable shots, then a second round to pick the strongest frames. Don’t over-edit too many shots!
• Non-Destructive Workflow – Work in layers in Photoshop and keep your RAW files untouched so you can always go back.
• Keyboard Shortcuts & Workflow Templates – Small things, big difference. Shortcuts and pre-built export settings speed things up noticeably. I have a couple of Export Settings saved that simultaneously export Full Resolution JPG’s and Smaller files more suitable for Social Media.

7. Packing Your Kit / On-Shoot Essentials

A well-packed kit isn’t just about having the best gear—it’s about being prepared for anything. From lighting shifts to last-minute creative changes, having the right tools within reach keeps your shoot running smoothly and your creative energy flowing.

My Go-To Canon Body + Lens Combo

Canon EOS R5 + RF 50mm f/1.2 - This combo is my current favourite. The EOS R5 delivers incredible detail, fast autofocus, and solid dynamic range—perfect for both fashion and portrait work. The RF 50mm f/1.2 is a great balance: wide enough to include the environment, but tight enough to give beautiful depth and subject isolation. It’s versatile, sharp, and never lets me down. I also carry my Canon EOS 1N + EF 50mm 1.4 camera to get some film shots on set. This combo has been with me for a few years and love getting some film photos on set.

Must-Have Accessories & Backups
• Extra Batteries – Always carry enough a couple of extra batteries, shoots can often run overtime and it's best to be prepared.
• Multiple Memory Cards/Portable SSD’s – I use fast, high-capacity cards (CFexpress & SD) and always back up to an external Solid-State Drive (SSD) during breaks.
• Reflectors/Diffusers – A simple 5-in-1 reflector is a lifesaver in natural light—especially for bouncing or softening sunlight.
• Tethering Cable + Capture One Setup – For studio shoots, tethering into Capture One helps with real-time adjustments and gives a better large screen preview for the whole team.
• Power Bank / Portable Charger – To keep phones or external monitors going throughout the day.

Gear Hacks & Pro Tips
• Gaffer Tape – Fixes anything—wardrobe malfunctions, light stands, cables. Never leave without it.
• Use a Rolling Camera Bag Instead of a Backpack – Wheeled bags like the Think Tank Airport series or Pelican 1510’s are lifesavers on long days or in large studios. They save your back and keep gear organized, accessible, and protected.
• Label Everything – From batteries to lens caps, label all your gear. It avoids confusion on multi-shooter sets and makes sure your items come back to you after the shoot.
• Bring Snacks + Water – Seriously underrated. Keeping energy levels high on set—especially during long fashion shoots—makes for a happier team and better images.
• Keep Printed Moodboards or Shot Lists – Having a printed version of your mood board or posing references helps keep the team aligned and focused—even when phones or tablets run out of battery.
• Use Velcro Straps & Cable Ties – Manage cables neatly—especially when tethering—using Velcro straps or cable clips. This prevents tripping hazards and keeps the set looking pro.
• Keep a Compact Tool Kit On Hand – Screwdrivers, Allen keys, scissors, safety pins, and a multi-tool can solve everything from a loose tripod plate to wardrobe fixes.

Follow Anupam to see more of his work:

• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/annupam/
• Website/Portfolio: https://www.annupam.com/